Monday, February 9, 2009

An Teallach: New Route for Glas Tholl.

The Corrie on Approach
It was a long old day yesterday. Davy and I headed NW to poke our heads in and have a look at Glas Tholl on An Teallach. Once out of the woods, it was clear the walk in was going to be hard work, every foot step was sinking in powder, the higher we got the deeper the powder. Eventually we reached the Coire, a little longer than the guide book recommended time!
A long approach
We spied an obvious unclimbed buttress between the Third and Fourth Prong. A good long route with a surprising finish, up a gully. The turf and neve on the route itself was very good, and we dispatched the 300mts or so, pretty efficiently.
I climbed a chimney of about tech 4 on the lower buttress but this was avoidable on the right and as it turned out not really in keeping with the rest of the route, which ended up being in a way, disappointingly easy, but still a good mountaineering line.
Davy in the groove!
On Route!
It did pass some spectacular rock scenery though, and the gate way through up to the upper gully was quite atmospheric.

On top we were treated to a spectacular sunset, and a few magical views with every piece of land insight being covered in snow.

A fantastic view.
Once finished we attempted to climb up and over Bidein a Ghlas Thuil but the powder was simply too deep so we dropped down towards Loch Toll an Lochain, a little unnerving on the loaded south facing slope. Once down we flogged out from the Loch. Despite being thigh deep in powder most of the way until past the loch, and also falling in a stream or two, and having to wrestle out of the occasional 4ft hole! We managed to get back to the car a couple of hours before midnight.

As for the route.

Post Hole Prong Phewy!
300m II Will Wilkinson Davy Moy 8th Feb 2009. Follow a turfy groove up the right side of the obvious buttress in between the third and fourth prong. At 150mts the Buttress splits with a through route up a 3mt wide gully in the centre of the buttress. Climb down and right into this gully and follow it through the gateway and exit right at the top(35mts). Continue up the obvious gully to the top (130mts).

No comments: