Juan, Davey, and I headed off to Lurchers Crag on the Western side of the Northern Cairngorms this morning. Parking at the sugar bowl car park we were soon off in the direction of the Chalamain Gap.
Passing through the gap the climbs are situated on a crag on the east side of the pass that runs the length of the cairngorms known as the Lairig Grhu. The target for the day was a two* grade III. Climbing as a three is never that quick and as we were still in the carpark at 9:30 this seemed the best option.
The climb itself is a very large gully running in the centre of the crag. Its first lower pitches were nothing more than a snow plod, however higher up the gully redeems itself with several small ice pitches, which though never too steep do provide some good sport. I lead the first 5pitches, leaving Juan to lead a final ice bulge.
The climb itself is a very large gully running in the centre of the crag. Its first lower pitches were nothing more than a snow plod, however higher up the gully redeems itself with several small ice pitches, which though never too steep do provide some good sport. I lead the first 5pitches, leaving Juan to lead a final ice bulge.
Though not too steep these ice pitches did serve as a timely reminder to tidy up my ice technique before Rujkan as the mixed stuff of late requires a whole set of different skills. As we started late we returned back to the car after dark to complete a 12hour day door to door.
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