Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Fluted Buttress Direct.

The weather forecast talked of an approaching warm front today. Perhaps as early as midday, so we opted for a climb in the good old Northern Corries. Coire an t-sneachda can allow you to be on a route an hour from the car park. Today are objective was a *** route called Fluted Buttress Direct. It is marked in green on the photo of the crag.
The route is a IV5 and was good value for money for the grade, I found the second pitch up an obvious chimney quite stiff, and the third pitch taking the right fork continuation of this chimney was also no pushover.

The sustained nature of the climb adds to the fun and I can see why it gets ***. Topping out onto the plateau was not so much fun though , as I pulled over I could feel it was a little bit breezy up top. The winds must have been in excess of 60-70mph and nothing else but getting off was on our minds. The gear was dumped in the bag and we made a quick dash down the goat track, which had formed a nice little cornice due to the strong SouthWesterly winds.
Once down in the Coire we were back in the car within an hour or so, walking through a very rapidly thawing Coire as the temperature had obviously risen during the day quite markedly. The climbing today was top fun and makes me want to get on some more of the Cairngorm mixed classics.