Stewart and I went down to Kingussie Crag after work today and did 4 routes in lovely evening sunshine, with daylight enough for the drive home too. Quartz wall is a lovely VS slab, on the right of the Groove.
Stewart on "Quartz Wall", a bit of an eliminate but worthwhile.
The highlight of the evening has to be finding the gear that protects the crux move of grooved arete. A lovely little VS 4c on the left of the Groove. After starting up the steep wall, you pull right onto the arete just before going up into a short corner. Here I found a home for 00microwire placed sideways in a pea-hole of quartz, not convinced it would of held, but if it didn’t, I was decking from 8mts up, so was careful to make sure I didn’t test the gear. Still I think its really quite a nice route and worth it just to check out the gear placement!
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