Thursday, December 3, 2009

Lazy Days!

Roger Andy and I headed into the Northern Corries for a leisurely day. Rain at the carpark soon gave way to snow which didn’t abate all day.
Anway as we left the car at 10:15 we fancied a short day. The direct pitch of hidden chimney made for a good start. I then spied a groove going up the left wall of the upper pitch of hidden chimney. After a steep pull over the roof this lovely pitch led through to the plateau and we were back home for tea and cake at the new café just above the adventure shop opposite Mountain Spirit in Aviemore. The cakes were fantastic. As for conditions, improving and snowy would be a good term, the snow was useable, and every bit of turf we found all day was set solid.
With no mention of this upper pitch in the guide, it was so obvious, it must have been done before, so any hopes of new routing were slim! Anyway after an email to the winter guru, otherwise known as Andy Nisbet it seems the groove and roof I took us on was the final pitch of Andy N's new route from last season called Technicoloured Dream Crack, the whole thing goes at VII 7 but the upper pitch was around the V6 mark and worth a *. The gear was good but felt strenous to place.
Worthwhile if you are stuck in a queue for Hidden chimney upper pitch and you don’t fancy the VII7 start to Technicoloured Dream Crack. Take the first steep exit groove on the left as you head up hidden chimney and pull over the roof (40) mts.
A really good day in the hills with great company and good climbing,

Andy on Pitch 1

Hot Aches!

Roger on his way up to join me on a windy shelf!

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