Thursday, December 17, 2009

Stirling Bomber.

Fiacaill Buttress.

Roger, Andy and I headed back into the Northern Corries for another short day. Overnight the freezing level fell to around 400mts and the crags are now well and truly plastered in rime and verglass. We opted for Stirling bomber a short but utterly brilliant V7. Although perhaps more like VI in todays harsh conditions.
Yes up there!!
After our trip out last week, it was Rogers turn to pull the trigger and he dispatched the main pitch in a very cool and calm style. Gear of any kind is a real battle and Roger showed some real tenacity to find some and pull out right to the mid way ledge.
In the chimney
Whilst belaying I saw a team fall from the top pitch of Invernookie, after apparently their belay failed. The two cart-wheeled the entire length of the crag. The good news is a apart from bruising and a few small fractures the two are fine, which is good news because it was a very sobering sight. In an attempt to communicate with them and offer help, poor old Roger had to climb the crux of our route 3 times!!!
In the end I ended up finishing well after dark.
Still a brilliant route in the dark.
As a note on conditions the Coire is full of Rime and Verglass that makes the climbing good, but very scary. Gear is hard fought at the moment. Not teaching Grans to suck eggs, but take care.

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